Quick answer: An approved sample only becomes a sellable product when it is graded into a full size run, knitted to those graded measurements, and finished so that every size holds the same fit and hand-feel. The three failure points are inconsistent grade increments between sizes, measurement drift from the size chart after washing, and finishing that changes the garment it is meant to preserve. A written size chart with named measurement points, a defined grade rule, and a post-wash check on every size is what keeps a range consistent.
In this article
- From approved sample to size run
- Building a size chart with named measurement points
- Grade rules: how measurement increments work
- Fit intent: regular, relaxed, and oversized
- Sizing for childrenswear
- Finishing: washing, pressing, and hand-feel
- Measuring correctly and consistently
- Why sizes drift and how to prevent it
- What buyers should specify upfront
- Frequently asked questions
From approved sample to size run
Sample approval confirms that one garment in one size meets the brief. It says nothing about whether size L will fit like a scaled version of size M, or whether the largest size will still hang correctly.
Three distinct activities follow approval, and each can be signed off separately:
- Grading. Deriving the measurements for every size from the approved base size using a defined increment rule.
- Knitting to grade. Translating those measurements into stitch counts per size in the knitting programme. This is not automatic — a grade rule produces target measurements, and the programmer must reach them within the constraints of the gauge and stitch structure.
- Finishing to standard. Establishing the wash and press routine so each size arrives at its target measurement with a consistent hand-feel.
Where a factory fails on size runs, it is usually because grading was treated as an arithmetic exercise and the knitted constraints were not reconciled with the grade rule.
Building a size chart with named measurement points
Most measurement disputes come from ambiguity about where a dimension is measured, not from a factory that cannot hit a dimension. Naming every point and its method removes the ambiguity.
| Measurement point | Where it is measured | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Body length | From the high point of shoulder (HPS) to the hem, measured flat and relaxed | Controls whether the garment sits at the intended point on the body |
| Chest width | Across the body at a defined distance below the armhole | The primary fit dimension for the torso |
| Shoulder width | Seam to seam across the back, or across the shoulder line in seamless styles | Critical in structured and set-in styles |
| Sleeve length | From the shoulder point to the cuff edge | Determines whether the sleeve reaches the intended point on the hand |
| Cuff opening | Relaxed width of the cuff, plus its stretched width | Governs comfort and whether the sleeve stays in place |
| Hem opening | Relaxed width of the hem | Sets the drape of the lower body |
| Neck width and drop | Opening width and depth at the front neckline | Determines whether the neckline sits correctly and takes a shirt underneath |
| Armhole depth | From shoulder line to underarm | Affects layering room and arm movement |
Published charts commonly list only chest, length, and sleeve. Adding cuff, hem, neck, and armhole depth is what allows a factory and a buyer to agree on fit rather than on three numbers.
Grade rules: how measurement increments work
A grade rule is the increment added or subtracted per size step. It is not a single number — different points grow at different rates, and knitwear adds a complication that woven garments do not have.
| Point | Typical increment per size step | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Chest width | About 2–3 cm per step in adult sizes | Half the chest circumference growth, since the measurement is flat half-width |
| Body length | About 1–2 cm per step | Grows more slowly than width; too much length change distorts silhouette |
| Shoulder width | About 0.5–1 cm per step | Grows slowly; over-grading here produces a dropped shoulder effect |
| Sleeve length | About 0.5–1 cm per step | Tied to arm length growth, not body width |
| Cuff opening | About 0.5 cm per step | Small changes preserve the intended fit at the wrist |
| Neck width | About 0.5 cm per step | Over-grading opens the neckline visibly |
Two knitwear-specific constraints apply. First, measurements must be achievable in whole stitches at the chosen gauge, so grade increments are adjusted to the nearest stitch multiple rather than applied as decimals. Second, knit fabrics stretch, so a graded dimension is a relaxed measurement; specifying the relaxed value and the measurement method together prevents disagreement.
Knitwear is also knitted by stitch count, not cut by pattern piece. Once the stitch count is set for a size, the achievable relaxed measurement is determined, and the programmer confirms whether the graded target can be reached at the specified gauge.
Fit intent: regular, relaxed, and oversized
The same size chart can describe very different garments depending on the intended ease. Fit intent should be stated in the tech-pack, because it determines how much room is built in beyond the body measurement.
| Fit intent | Ease built in | Silhouette | Grading note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Slim / body-conscious | Minimal to none | Follows the body line | Grade increments stay tight; small errors are visible |
| Regular | Moderate | Comfortable without excess | The default for most commercial knitwear |
| Relaxed | Noticeable | Straight or slightly loose body | Shoulder may be deliberately dropped |
| Oversized | Substantial | Deliberately loose throughout | Grade increments can be smaller per step because the silhouette is already generous |
In the current Qirui range, fit intent is stated per style rather than left implicit: a men's lapel cardigan is specified as relaxed fit, a men's heavy cable crew neck as loose fit, and a women's cropped turtleneck as relaxed fit. Stating it removes the risk of a factory grading toward a slimmer silhouette than the design intended.
Sizing for childrenswear
Childrenswear is graded by height rather than by an adult size code, and the increments differ from adult sizing. A kids' cashmere cardigan in the Qirui range is graded by height from 80 to 150 cm, with chest, sleeve, and length increasing at each step.
Two practical notes apply to children's knitwear:
- Growth allowance. Buyers often want a garment to fit through a season, which means the grade must account for how the child grows, not just for the current measurement.
- Safety and care labelling. Childrenswear carries stricter labelling requirements in most markets, and the care instruction must match the fibre and the finishing treatment actually applied.
Drop-shoulder construction is common in childrenswear because it accommodates growth and reduces sizing pressure at the shoulder seam.
Finishing: washing, pressing, and hand-feel
Finishing is where the knitted garment becomes the product. It also changes dimensions, which is why finishing parameters must be established on the approved sample and then repeated exactly.
| Finishing step | Purpose | What can go wrong |
|---|---|---|
| Washing / wet finishing | Relaxes the fabric, develops hand-feel, removes residual oils | Over-washing shrinks the garment; under-washing leaves it stiff and unstable |
| Softening treatment | Achieves the specified hand-feel | Excess softener reduces resilience and increases pilling |
| Hydro-extraction | Removes excess water before drying | Excessive mechanical action causes surface fuzz and distortion |
| Drying / shaping | Brings the garment to target dimensions | Uneven drying causes panels to differ in size |
| Pressing / steaming | Sets the final shape and surface | Too much heat flattens stitch definition; too little leaves creases |
| Final measurement | Confirms the garment matches the size chart | Measuring before the garment is fully relaxed gives a false reading |
Cashmere and fine wool are the most sensitive to finishing. Excessive mechanical action during washing or hydro-extraction raises surface fibres, which shows as fuzz and leads to pilling in the first wears. The finishing routine for premium fibres should therefore be gentler and more tightly specified than for coarse wool.
Measuring correctly and consistently
Measurement is only meaningful when the method is fixed. The following conventions should be written into the specification and used by both the factory and the buyer.
- Measure flat, relaxed, on a level surface. Suspended garments stretch under their own weight.
- Allow the garment to relax before measuring. A freshly pressed or freshly handled garment carries tension.
- Use the same measurement points every time. Point definition should not be reinterpreted between sampling and bulk.
- Record whether the measurement is relaxed or stretched. Cuffs and hems in particular have both.
- Measure after washing, not only before. Pre-wash measurement tells you what was knitted; post-wash measurement tells you what the customer receives. ])}
- How knitwear factories prepare wool and cashmere yarn before knitting starts
- Gauge, stitch structure and inline QC: how knitwear quality is controlled on the machine
Why sizes drift and how to prevent it
Size drift is a systematic problem, so the causes are also systematic. Each can be closed off with a specific control.
| Drift cause | What you observe | Control |
|---|---|---|
| Grade increments not reconciled with gauge | One or two sizes sit outside the chart | Confirm stitch counts per size before bulk |
| Programme edited after approval | Whole run shifts from the approved sample | Lock programme versions and reference them |
| Yarn lot variation | Different shipments measure differently at the same size | Verify count and twist per lot before knitting |
| Insufficient relaxation before knitting | Post-wash shrinkage pulls sizes small | Rest yarn and run a wash test on the pre-production sample |
| Inconsistent finishing | Same size measures differently between batches | Fix wash and press parameters and monitor them |
| Different measurement method | Factory and buyer disagree on the same garment | Write the method into the order confirmation |
What buyers should specify upfront
Most size-run problems are cheaper to prevent at the specification stage than to correct after shipment. These are the items worth settling before bulk yarn is ordered:
| Specify | Why it prevents a problem |
|---|---|
| Base size and grade rule | Removes ambiguity about how each size is derived |
| Named measurement points and methods | Prevents measurement disputes on delivered goods |
| Fit intent per style | Stops the factory grading toward a slimmer or looser silhouette than intended |
| Weight per garment as a band | Gives a fast verification that yarn count matches the specification |
| Post-wash dimensional tolerance | Defines what the customer receives, not what was knitted |
| Finishing routine for the fibre | Protects hand-feel and reduces early pilling |
| AQL level and defect definitions | Makes final inspection objective for both sides |
| Size-set quantities | Confirms that the size curve matches the market, before knitting |
Suppliers who ask for these items during quotation rather than after sampling are generally the ones with a documented process. It is a reasonable signal to weigh when comparing factories.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the same size fit differently between two orders?
The most common causes are yarn lot variation and inconsistent finishing. If the yarn count or twist differs between lots, or if the wash and press parameters were not repeated exactly, the same nominal size measures differently. Verifying yarn per lot and fixing finishing parameters both address it.
How much shrinkage is acceptable after the first wash?
It should be within the post-wash tolerance agreed in the specification, commonly expressed as a percentage of the approved dimension, for example within ±3%. The number matters less than having one written down and testing against it before bulk production.
Should measurements be taken before or after washing?
Both, for different purposes. Pre-wash measurement confirms what was knitted; post-wash measurement confirms what the customer receives. Final acceptance should be based on post-wash figures, because that is the state the garment will be in during use.
Can an oversized style use the same grade rule as a regular style?
Usually not without adjustment. An oversized garment already carries substantial ease, so applying large width increments on top of that ease can make the larger sizes unwearable. Oversized ranges typically use smaller per-step increments.
Why do cashmere garments pill more than wool in the first weeks?
Cashmere fibres are finer and shorter, so loose surface fibres migrate and form pills more readily. Gentle finishing, adequate twist in the yarn, and correct washing instructions reduce it. Some initial pilling on a new cashmere garment is normal and decreases as loose fibres shed.
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